Yves Saint Laurent's legendary Le Smoking suit returned to the Paris catwalk 60 years after its invention, marking a significant moment at Paris Fashion Week. Designed by the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent to empower women with a sleek, androgynous silhouette, the suit has become a global symbol of power dressing and gender equality. This year, current designer Anthony Vaccarello reimagined the iconic piece for the 2026 collection.
Key Takeaways
Yves Saint Laurent's iconic Le Smoking suit made a triumphant return to Paris Fashion Week, reimagined by designer Anthony Vaccarello for the 2026 collection. The updated design features a more structured silhouette inspired by Wall Street, paired with maximal jewelry and bold makeup.
- Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking suit returns after 60 years
- Updated design features a structured, Wall Street-inspired look
- Showcase includes oversized knitted shearling jackets and sky-high heels
- Event held in a modernist glass 'apartment' with the Eiffel Tower lit up by 20,000 bulbs
- Front-row attendees included fashion icons Kate Moss and Michelle Pfeiffer
The updated Le Smoking suit features a more structured, Wall Street-inspired look, complete with maximal jewelry and bold makeup reminiscent of Robert Palmer's Addicted to Love video. The collection also includes oversized jackets in knitted shearling and sky-high heels, emphasizing the power-dressing theme.
The show took place in a modernist glass 'apartment' with the Eiffel Tower lit up by 20,000 twinkling bulbs. Front-row attendees included fashion icons Kate Moss and Michelle Pfeiffer, adding to the event's glamour. Despite the extravagant setting, current global events cast a shadow over the mood.
Wildly materialistic displays of power and wealth are not well-received in today's climate, particularly with economic uncertainty looming. However, Paris Fashion Week remains a significant financial and cultural moment for the French capital. Pascal Morand, executive president of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, assured reporters that there would be 'no cancellation, no modification' to the schedule.
According to Kering, the conglomerate that owns YSL, annual revenue last year was approximately €2.6bn (£2.3bn), down about 8% year on year. Despite this decline, Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at Harrods, noted that the brand has shown resilience and improvement. 'People are still buying it,' he said.
Fashion often reflects culture but also serves as a form of aspiration and fantasy. As the world grapples with uncertainty, designers like Vaccarello continue to push boundaries and redefine classic pieces, offering a glimpse into the future of style.
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