Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

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  • April 9, 2026 at 12:26 AM ET
  • Est. Read: 1 Min
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Key Takeaways

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, has died at age 97. His historic climb in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu inspired a generation of mountaineers and helped grow outdoor retail giant REI.

  • Jim Whittaker passed away Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington
  • He was the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest on May 1, 1963
  • Served as president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI from 1971 to 1979
  • Advocated for national parks including North Cascades National Park and Redwood National Park
  • Authored memoir 'A Life on the Edge' detailing his mountaineering experiences

Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died at age 97. According to a statement from his family, he passed away Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

The celebrated mountaineer made history on May 1, 1963 when he and Nawang Gombu reached the highest point on Earth. This accomplishment came ten years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's pioneering climb and helped spark a wave of interest in mountaineering across America.

Whittaker was not only known for his historic ascent but also for his leadership as president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI from 1971 to 1979. During his tenure, the company's membership grew significantly from nearly 250,000 to over 900,000 members.

Beyond mountaineering and retail leadership, Whittaker was a passionate advocate for environmental conservation. He testified before Congress in support of establishing several national parks including North Cascades National Park and Redwood National Park. His efforts helped shape outdoor spaces that Americans enjoy today.

The family statement described Whittaker as someone who 'sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him.' His memoir A Life on the Edge detailed his experiences summiting Everest and his life thereafter.

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