Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Dies at 97

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  • April 9, 2026 at 12:26 AM ET
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Key Takeaways

Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest, has died at age 97. He passed away on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, surrounded by family and loved ones.

  • Jim Whittaker climbed to the highest point on Earth on May 1, 1963
  • He was also a former president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI
  • Whittaker's life was marked by significant achievements beyond his historic Everest climb
  • His advocacy helped shape environmental conservation efforts

Jim Whittaker, the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has died aged 97. According to a statement from his family, he passed away on Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington, surrounded by family and loved ones.

Whittaker climbed to the highest point on Earth on May 1, 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu. The feat helped spawn interest — and an industry — in mountaineering in the U.S., and it made the once-shy, rangy climber an instant celebrity.

He was also a former president and CEO of outdoor retailer REI. Whittaker's life was marked by significant achievements beyond his historic Everest climb. He returned to Everest with his son Leif in 2013 and remained connected to the climbing community throughout his life. His memoir, A Life on the Edge, detailed his experiences summiting Everest and his life thereafter.

Whittaker's legacy extends beyond mountaineering. He testified before Congress in 1968, advocating for the establishment of North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington state, as well as Redwood National Park in California. His advocacy helped shape environmental conservation efforts.

Whittaker's impact on the outdoor community was profound. He served as a prominent voice for the protection of natural spaces and inspired generations of explorers and climbers. His contributions to REI and his leadership roles within The Mountaineers organization further cemented his legacy in the outdoor world.

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